HIKE: OTTER TRAIL
DATE: 25 – 29 APRIL 2010
TYPE: 5 DAY BACK PACKING
AREA: NATURES VALLEY
We had waited a whole year to do this hike… and then finally the time came!! We all set off with different expectations (I am sure) but all with much enthusiasm. After lots of planning and changing of said plans we left Gauteng in our own time making our way down to the old Hikers Haven – now called Natures Valley Guest House – all stopping over at different venues. Enjoyed the usual night before braai and have to recommend the accommodation, not forgetting the scrumptious breakfast around the round table that seats exactly 12!!
I had arranged a lift to the start, after parking all our vehicles at the camp site, with a company Bay Tours, very reasonably priced and very friendly and helpful – but then we found that most people in that area of our gorgeous country were obviously all first in line when it came to handing out friendliness.
As with any of your coastal hikes the weather plays a vital part, and we were ever so lucky to have the most awesome weather as can be seen from the photos. Anyone who has done the Otter will tell you all about the ups and downs and then more ups and downs, and oh yes the ups were there and they aren’t the greatest especially as maintenance on the trail is very much up to date and the ups have all been addressed with wooden poles and these are the worst to negotiate! We had one escapee after day 1, Nicole opted to go and join Pauline in her wanderings. The huts were relatively clean – please note the “relative” – by this I mean we have come across worse, but also better!! And here no complaints against Sanparks, purely against the previous hikers. Huts weren’t swept, bits of paper scattered around, and oodles of beer bottles (I sincerely hope the hikers didn’t carry these all that way!!) at the one hut. Since my last visit the improvements at the campsites are very welcome, flushing loos, showers (all be it cold), as well as communal undercover braai areas.
Day 1 you trudge uphill, stumble downhill and scramble over the rocks, meander through the forest – only to repeat this up until day 5, and yet this is a hike that remains the most popular and well known hike, especially among overseas visitors. There is much to be said for the beautiful views, gorgeous sunsets, sandy beaches, as well as those covered in a huge variety of pebbles / stones, and shells. (I didn’t have enough pocket space for all the shells I would have loved to bring home!)
Before the hike we received horrendous reports about crossing the Bloukrans, including having to swim through a deep gully and worst of all – sharks! Sitting around the braai fire the night before, with a full moon out, we decided that the only way to get to the river by low tide at 9.30am was to wake up at 2am and get going. Everything went according to plan except that the moon disappeared behind thick clouds and we had to rely on our headlamps for light. Eventually we came around a cliff and saw the Bloukrans down below. It didn’t look too bad. At the bottom we prepared ourselves by getting out the survival bags and taking off our boots, but it was hardly necessary. We managed to wade through, only getting wet to the tops of out legs. The full moon must have caused a very low tide, but the river was also low because of the drought in the southern Cape. It was actually a bit of a letdown, after being so mentally prepared for the death-defying crossing.
And that feeling as you suddenly look up and realise you are almost at the end, ahead of you Natures Valley‘s most awesome beach stretches, don’t worry about this huge cliff you still have to negotiate to get there! And then the best of the bestest….. way in the distance you spy this 1970 green Kombi with the white roof, and your starved saliva glands grind into first gear as they know, yes they just know that Pauline and Nicole are on their way in the booze wagon to meet us at the end…. and yes they did meet us at the end with a full cool box on board!! Have you ever seen a bunch of exhausted hikers with full back packs “running” across a sandy beach, eyes wide, tongues hanging out…. well – I did!!!
And then….. We decided to make a slight detour on the way back over nighting in the most gorgeous off the beaten track little town, Nieu-Bethesda, at a place called The Tower. And once again – we were blown away by the friendliness and hospitality of the whole town. We arrived in the dark, took some awesome pictures, had the most delicious supper prepared by Martin and waitressed by Merlyn, slept in divinely comfortable beds – but then after the triple tier bunk beds on the hike I think any form of bed would have been welcome. After a lovely breakfast we meandered through the little town, met some of the artists Naasley Swiers, Gerald Mei, James Hartlief and the young apprentice Riaan, who ply their various craft at the Arts centre (should have got some autographs!!), as well as visiting the Owl House – very well known home of the artist Helen Martins. We only got back on the road at about 10, but I think most of us left a little bit of ourselves back there in this gorgeous little town of Nieu-Bethesda.
There is no “in conclusion” – as the Otter Trail is a must do for each and every hiker.